COLEMAN TRAILER : --_______________Howard, Claudia, and Megan Ruttan1999 Ford Crown Victoria1999 Coleman Sea Pine1989 F-150 4x4 (semi-retired)The alt.rv.pop-up-trailers website:Dale & Betty wrote in message...==-----Left turnRight turnRunning lightsGround (common)Backup lightsBrakesCurious. On my 99 Sea Pine, I have a seventh wire to ground. Apparentlythe other ground must have been insufficient on earlier models. TheTekonsha user's manual may substantiate this, as it has no shortage ofwarnings about voltage fluctuation interfering with brake operation.--_______________Howard, Claudia, and Megan Ruttan1999 Ford Crown Victoria1999 Coleman Sea Pine1989 F-150 4x4 (semi-retired)The alt.rv.pop-up-trailers website:Mark J Strawcutter wrote in message...On my '97 Key West, the 7th wire (center pin, used for backup lights)is unused.My Tekonsha Sentinal manual makes it clear you need a dedicated hot/groundfrom the battery to the controller, and a good heavy ground back to thebrakes. No mention (that I remember) of dedicated ground from controllerto brakes. COLEMAN TRAILER : I'd have to look to be sure, but I think the trailer brakes get theirground from the trailer frame. Bad idea IMO - they should at least runa ground wire to them.Coleman will send you a 12V wiring schematic for $1. Handy to have. I'lltry to remember to check mine tonight to make sure what I'm saying agreeswith it :-)I wired my own vehicle and did all my own installations. The controlleritself is grounded directly to the battery while the brake line which runsto the trailer is grounded back to the tow vehicle's chassis, which is anacceptable ground. What I am unsure of is if the 7th, ground, wire is fromtrailer chassis to tow vehicle chassis, and serves to ground the brake andbattery charge circuits. This is what would make the most sense (to groundboth circuits) and a chassis to chassis ground should be more thaneffective. COLEMAN TRAILER : Yes, this is a wire directly from the negative battery post to thecontroller, as recommended inthe manual (or should be).These statements are conflicting. My manual only indicates one wire, whichis a switched power supply, that runs to the brakes. Logic would dictatethat for completion of the circuit, when the electromagnets in the brakesare activated, one would require a ground back to the tow vehicle -- a wireground or a chassis ground would suffice. Grounding to the trailer chassiswould not be effective. (Although, one could argue that the ball to hitchconnection forms a ground, but then you have to consider the electricalpotential of the lubricant.) It would also seem to be appropriate that theground for the brake lights not function as the ground for the brakes. Isay this because on my system the brake is a 20 amp circuit and the taillights, I believe, are 10 amps. They may be 15 amps though. COLEMAN TRAILER : An excellent suggestion to get the schematic. I will do that right away.--_______________Howard, Claudia, and Megan Ruttan1999 Ford Crown Victoria1999 Coleman Sea Pine1989 F-150 4x4 (semi-retired)The alt.rv.pop-up-trailers website:Mark J Strawcutter wrote in message...Just like the chassis of the tow vehicle is a suitable ground there, thechassis of the trailer is often a suitable ground. The tow wiring harnessground wire serves to tie the two chassis together (so you don't depend onthe ball-to-hitch).It's quite appropriate to use a common ground - your tow vehicle's electricalsystem does it all over. The hot wires are fused. As long as the ground hasgreat enough capacity to handle the combined load, you're OK.If included in the circuit. Remember the circuit ends back at the towvehicle.Precisely. The wiring for the lights doesn't necessarily contact theframe. Such is the case on many smaller trailers, hence the seventh wireto ground. I have experience with two trailers where this is the case --no ground to the frame of the trailer, and neither had brakes. I waspointing out that it seemed appropriate to add the extra ground wire whenyou add the brakes (and perhaps a charge line), which deal with heaviergauge wire and higher amperage. This is more of a safety feature thananything else, to make the relative size of the electron pathway in equalto that of the pathway out. COLEMAN TRAILER : Very true.--_______________Howard, Claudia, and Megan Ruttan1999 Ford Crown Victoria1999 Coleman Sea Pine1989 F-150 4x4 (semi-retired)This is a 6 pin square connector he's got, not a 7 pin round, so there is nocenter pin. I have the same plug on my '87 Shanandoah. Standard Colemanhookup in the '80s.Per the user manual the layout is:White = GroundBlue = Electric BrakeYellow = Left Turn & StopGreen = Right Turn & StopRed = Back UpBrown = Tail & Side MarkerThere is also a separate 2-connector plug next to the 6-connector that iswired as:Black = Aux. PowerWhite = GroundI've not been able to find a 6 pin to flat 4 adapter, though the local RVdealer said he can make one for me. There are 6 pin square adapters on themarket made by Hoppy, but the plug is molded differently than the Colemanand will not mate with it.As the industry has pretty much standardized on the 4 pin flat and the 7 pinround I've decided to switch mine over to 7 pin. As I had put a 4 pin flatlitemate t-connector in my van I am able to use the Hoppy 7-pin replacementcable for it. Now I only need to replace the trailer-side connector with a 7pin round plug.
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